pursuing shalom

Aswan

2008-12-21T16:10:00.001-08:00

Aswan is in the south of Egypt and has a much more "African" feel than an "Arab" one. Here we saw the unfinished obelisk, the biggest dam in the world (on the Nile), and the Philae temple. After lunch we took a falucca ride on the Nile to the desert side, where we got on camels and rode to a desert monastery. After some exploring we rode our camels back to our boat and continued down the river to a Nubian village. A hospitable Nubian family invited us into their home for fresh hibiscus juice, dancing, and henna. What a fun day!

Old Cairo, the Egyptian Museum, and the Sleeper Train

2008-12-21T15:48:00.000-08:00

Our next day started in the land of Goshen at Tel-al-Yehudiya ("hill of the Jews"), where the Israelites would have lived and worked for Pharaoh before the exodus. We discussed several Biblical passages here, but as I surveyed the flat landscape, rich soil, and green palm trees, what really stood out to me was that life in Egypt was good, predictable, and secure--the exact opposite of life in Israel. (I have more thoughts on that, but I think I will write a separate blog on them).

On our way to Old Cairo, our bus hit a car...and kept driving. Remember how I said there are no traffic lanes or lights? Well, I guess there just aren't many traffic laws, period. It's a different world.

In Old Cairo (or "Coptic Cairo"), we visited a two coptic churches and a synagogue. One was built in honor of Mary and Joseph's flight to Egypt. This was the highlight of my day, because I met a group of 10-15 Egyptian girls ages 13-14 in the bathroom. They were super excited to practice their English and take my picture, and we spent most of my time there hanging out in the courtyard.

We spent the afternoon in the Egyptian Museum, where we saw things I remember seeing in my middle-school textbooks, like the contents of King Tut's tomb and the mummies! I saw the mummies of both Ramses II and Tuthmose III, who are both thought to be the Pharaohs during the exodus (depending on whether you agree with the early or late date). They still had hair and fingernails!

After some time at the market and a stop at a bathroom, we headed to the train station. That night I slept on the overnight train as it clacked down the tracks from Cairo to Aswan.

Cairo & the Pyramids

2008-12-21T15:17:00.000-08:00

Our journey started with a full day of driving from Jerusalem to Cairo, the biggest city I have ever been in with a population of 20 million people. To put it in perspective: the number of people who work the night shift in Cairo is equal to the total number of people living in Chicago. We got to our hotel near 11 pm, and Naomi and I went out to explore the city. Big, crazy, and dirty are all words that come to mind when I think of my initial impressions of Cairo. It is a city that never sleeps-- there were just as many people out on the streets at 2 am as at 2 pm. There were no traffic lanes, no street signs, and few stoplights. Mounds of litter and garbage lined the streets since there is no public garbage pick-up service. Suffocating smog and impure tap water are just part of life in Cairo. All these things are very different from Israel, and right away I also noticed that the people were different, too. In general, the Egyptians I met were friendly and loved to smile and laugh. Even security guards joked around with us. This was much different from Israel and the West Bank, where people are usually very tense and serious.

On our first day out, the traffic was good because the Muslims (85% of Egyptians) were having a four-day feast, the annual "Festival of Sacrifice" to celebrate Abraham's sacrifice of Ishmael. Sheep and cattle wandered the streets in front of our bus, unaware of their fate, and we watched men and their sons catch and slaughter their animals.

Our first full day was mostly spent exploring the pyramids at Dahshur, Memphis, Saqqara, and Giza. The ones at Giza were the largest at 440 ft. tall. It's estimated that it took 200,000 workers 20 years to build it! We also saw the sphinx.

That night Naomi, Jesse, John, and I explored downtown Cairo some more. We met a local young man, Muhammad, who took us to his cousin's cafe, packed with people. We hung out for quite a while, and enjoyed talking with lots of different people. I had some delicious fresh mango juice. I also rode in my first Egyptian taxi, which felt like a crazy carnival ride complete with multi-colored flashing lights and blaring Arab music. I decided that I like Cairo a lot.

Out of Egypt I called my son...

2008-12-21T14:54:00.000-08:00

I have been back in the States for a week today, and it has been so good to catch up with family and friends! I ended my semester abroad with an 8-day field study to Egypt. My next few entries will include some pictures, stories, and thoughts from that week.

Last Week in Jerusalem

2008-12-04T09:09:00.000-08:00

I am nearing the end of my last week in Jerusalem...can you believe it?! Early Saturday morning I leave for Egypt, and I will return to Green Bay December 14. This semester has gone by so fast.

This past week I finished up my final exams and term papers, did some Christmas shopping at the souk, and spent a lot of time enjoying the city and the relationships I have built here. Tuesday I went to a Palestinian refugee camp in Bethlehem called Tahatia, where 12,000 people live in less than half of a square kilometer. I was invited into a family’s home and got to hear their story. Yesterday I walked the ramparts of the Old City walls. Today I attended a free lecture on the “Theology of the Land." All these things were very thought-provoking. I have learned much during my time here, and in some ways I am coming home with more questions than answers.

Tomorrow I will spend my last day packing, walking around the city, and saying goodbye to Marwa and my friends at the Gypsy Center. After dinner I’m going to sing Christmas carols at St. Anne’s church with a group of friends, and after that we are going to Dr. Wright’s house for cookies and a time of sharing and praising God for his faithfulness this past semester. He is so good!

A Gypsy Engagement Party

2008-11-28T11:15:00.000-08:00

I just got back from Marwa's engagement party...what a cultural experience!

When I first arrived, I was hustled into a tiny back room of the house where all the other women were waiting. Marwa had her hair all curled and was wearing very heavy, elaborate make-up. Most of the other women were wearing brightly colored dresses with silk headscarves, lots of gold jewelry, and heavy make-up as well. All the children waited with us in the back room too. The small house was packed with at least 100 friends and family members, and it was fun to try to figure out who was with who.

Me, Marwa, and Katia at the Domari Center (bottom)

Marwa and I at her engagement party (top)

After a short wait, we heard the men started to read the Qur'an in the other room. All us women crowded near the door and tried to listen. After the recitation, all the men shot off guns into the air outside. Meanwhile, we women went even further back into another small room and crowded on small stools. Marwa's sister-in-law started the Arabic party music pumping, and Marwa started to dance while we all clapped. Different people--her mom, her grandmother, her cousin--got up and took turns dancing with her. I've never seen so much hip-shaking in all my life, and was certainly not expecting it here! Inevitably, Marwa pulled me up to dance with her...so I did, laughing all the while. When one of the elderly veiled women saw me dance, she immediately called me over and asked if I would marry her son. I politely declined.

During the dancing, different food was served along with Arabic coffee, including baklava and some sort of pesto-type sauce on pita bread.

After the dance warm-up, the time came for Marwa's fiance to enter. She squeezed my hand and shot me a nervous look right before he came in. She barely met him last week. They danced around each other without touching for a few songs. Then, we stopped the music...it was time for the engagement "ceremony." Zaki (her fiance) carefully adorned Marwa with gold jewelry: two necklaces, three rings, three bangles, and earrings. Two of the elderly women shrieked and made a tribal-sounding noise with their tongues--a joyous celebration sound. Then Marwa and Zaki danced again, this time cautiously holding hands, now an officially-engaged couple. After about an hour, he left the room, and we women got to have the floor again! One of the women handed me her three-month-old baby to hold while she danced. I couldn't stop smiling as I watched these beautiful women of all generations freely celebrate together.

After several hours of dancing, it was time to go. We took a few pictures, kissed each other on the cheeks, and said goodbye. I will never forget this night!

Happy Thanksgiving!

2008-11-28T00:18:00.001-08:00

Hey everyone -- Happy Thanksgiving! I hope you all had a restful day with family and friends.

Thanksgiving in Israel was a little strange, since it's not a holiday here. I had a final exam in the morning, and then I ran in the first annual JUC 5K Turkey Trot. I had Arabic class in the afternoon. As I entered Bethlehem, I was shocked to see tons of Palestinian Special Forces vehicles speeding down the street, tires squealing and everything. Men with the guns pointed out the windows stared me down.
When I turned onto the street that the college is on, there were armed soldiers with their guns locked and loaded on both sides of the street, about one every twenty feet or so. It was quite intimidating to walk through. I laughed to myself and thought, What a Thanksgiving parade...I mean, really, who needs Macy's? Later, I found out it was because the president of Palestine was coming to meet with the prime minister of Italy.

Anyway...when I got back I talked with my family, which was good, and then it was time for dinner. The dining room was decorated really nice, and I couldn't believe all the good food we had! We had all volunteered to make different dishes, and people were so thoughtful in modifying things so that they were gluten-free for me. :-) It was so refreshing to eat a slow dinner and enjoy talking with each other.

The past few weeks have been pretty busy here, full of studying and writing term papers. In the Eastern world, education is very self-motivated; your whole grade is usually based on one huge exam or term paper at the end of the class. However, I have still managed to have some adventures. Ashleigh, Naomi, and I visited the Dome of the Rock (see pictures below). Last Saturday, I went to Hebron (south of Bethlehem in the West Bank) and visited some friends who run an Arab school. I sat in on some English classes and some classes for hearing-impaired children. They were learning their numbers and colors in Arabic, so I learned right along with them! :-)

In other news, my friend Marwa (who I teach English to at the Domari Center) got engaged last week! I am going to her engagement party this afternoon. She is 17, and her brother helped arrange the marriage to one of his 27-year-old friends. This seems so strange to us, but in this culture it is the norm.

The countdown in on...in 17 days I will be home! I'm looking forward to see you all.

"For I know that my Redeemer lives..." (Job 19:25)

Hazy Horizons

2008-11-16T05:27:00.000-08:00

Day 4: Central Transjordan: Medeba Plateau, Moab
Sites visited: Kir-hareshath, Arnon River Valley, Dibon, Medeba, Mt. Nebo

This morning I woke up in Kir-hareshath (modern-day Kerak), next to a Crusader castle! Last night, Ashleigh, Naomi, and I walked around the town after dinner, popping into stores to chat with shopkeepers. I have been continually impressed with how friendly and talkative the Jordanians are.

Of course, the first thing we did this morning was explore the Kerak Castle. Cold desert wind caused us to huddle close together whenever we stopped for a lecture, and Dr. Wright reminded us that this desert land reaches over 120º F in the summer yet also plummets below freezing in the winter. To live in this desolate land, people must develop strong survival skills. Interestingly, the Bible often speaks of the desert wilderness as being a place where true wisdom is found. For instance, this is the land of Job, who learned after his testing here, confessed to the Lord: “I know that you can do all things, and that no purpose of yours can be thwarted” (42:2).

From there we headed to Medeba and Dibon, where we discussed several Biblical events: Elimelech and Naomi (Ruth), Ehud and King Eglon (Judges 8), and Mesha’s rebellion (2 Kings 3). At Medeba we also saw the famous map on the floor of the Greek Orthodox church.

Finally, we headed to our last stop of the last field study: Mount Nebo. This is where Moses stood with the Israelites as they prepared to enter the Promised Land after forty years of wandering in the wilderness. During their time in the desert, God had given them “skills for living”—Torah—and they had grown in true wisdom, just as Job did in the desert. The Israelites became acclimated to life in the desert and became comfortable and skilled as Bedouin-type people. As they stood on this mountain and surveyed this new land, I wonder what they felt. Not knowing what lie ahead, many probably felt anxious or maybe even fearful. Thinking back on the past, I bet some of them felt frustrated. Remember how easy we had it back in Egypt, where we owned sheep and cattle and could grow food by the Nile? Remember how tough the wilderness was at first? But we worked hard and learned how to survive, and now we’re quite comfortable as desert nomads. I don’t really want to settle down and learn how to live in a new place all over again. Why do we have to go to this “promised land?” Why not just stay where we’re comfortable already?
On the brink of yet another major life change for the Israelites, Moses the leader reminded the people of their past and of their renewed covenant with God. He read the law, which contains instructions specific for this phase of life. He reminded them of the blessings and curses of the law, and sang some songs (Deut. 29-34).
As I stood on Mount Nebo staring off at the hazy horizon line, I could relate to the Israelites because over the past few years I have often been in transition. Sometimes it’s frustrating, because just when I get comfortable, God moves me again! Currently, in just four weeks, I will be leaving Israel to finish up my last year and a half of college in the States. After that, I have no idea what lies ahead. Will I get married? Will I go overseas? Will I continue my education? I have dreams and plans for the future, but they are uncertain, and I know that the journey ahead will not always be easy. Sometimes, like the Israelites, I feel anxious, fearful, or frustrated when I look to the changes in the near future.
However, Moses’ words reminded me of several things as I stood on Mount Nebo. First, I must remember that my future is rooted in my past: who I am, where I came from, and all that Jesus has done in my life. Second, I know that when I go through periods of “wilderness wandering,” God will meet me, give me more skills for living, and teach me true wisdom. Most importantly, the story of the Israelites is my story, and however hazy my horizons might be, I will trust God with my future.

The Last Crusade

2008-11-15T05:26:00.000-08:00

Day 3: Exploring the southern seam
Sites visited: Petra, Wadi Dana, Bozrah

Today we woke up in Petra! ☺ We left bright and early for seven hours of awesome hiking. As we entered the site, turbaned men with horses trotted around us, and we marveled at the sandstone formations. As we went “further up and deeper in,” we entered a narrow passage with huge sandstone cliffs on either side. Through the narrow passageway ahead we could see glimpses of something BIG, and I started humming the Indiana Jones theme song (this is where “The Last Crusade” was filmed). When we finally came out into the clearing, we were stunned by the site of the treasury—majestically carved right into the cliff.

Ashleigh and I hiked off the beaten path and encountered two young Bedouin women making tea in a tin pot over a fire. The older one was 23 and the younger one was 15. We stayed and chatted with them for a while. The older woman spoke English quite well, and told us that they lived just over the mountain but come over here to sell jewelry to the tourists. They were quite friendly and invited us to have tea. Eventually we had to leave, but as we walked away, the younger girl ran after us. “Wait! A gift—for you!” She handed us two beaded bracelets with a smile. “Ma es-salaame!”

After that point, we broke into smaller groups to hike around more. Ashleigh, Brandon, Liz, and I started the long trek to the Deir (monastery) one of the highest points of Petra. On the way we made friends with two little boys riding donkeys. They followed us along most of the way. Along the way, we stopped at several more amazing structures carved out of sandstone. After a couple hours we came to a sign that said, “Warning! Hiking beyond this point without a guide is dangerous!” We continued past it and started our ascent to the monastery, and after many steps and much climbing, we made it! It was well worth the sweat. Words can’t even describe it—this was the biggest carving we had seen yet.

We climbed even further past the monastery and saw a hand-painted sign that said, “This way to the end of the world.” Well, who can pass that up?! We hiked to the edge of a cliff where we could see for miles over the mountains into Israel. Beautiful. We met a girl there named Maria who is from Spain but married a Bedouin man, so she lives here now. She seemed lonely. I wished we had more time to hear her story.

It took us several more hours to hike back, but we enjoyed more of the sites and explored the huge Petra temple. When we finally made it back, we were ready for lunch and a little break for our feet!
After a short rest, we boarded the bus and started down the King’s Highway. On the way we stopped and looked over the Wadi Dana, and talked about how the Nabateans relate to the Bible. After a while we stopped at Bozrah, the capital of Edom in the Bible. We stopped at a beautiful lookout over the wadi again and read many prophet passages in the Bible that describe Edom and Bozrah. When you look past the theology, it is amazing how much accurate historical information is in the Bible. We enjoyed the sunset at Bozrah and wandered back to the bus.

I got to the bus a little early, so I talked with two of the village women that were nearby. They only spoke Arabic and one of them had seven kids—five boys and two girls. The youngest boy had fluorescent green eyes the curiously peered at me from underneath wild curly brown hair. They were very friendly and invited me for dinner. Sadly, I had to decline to rejoin our group on the bus. I wish I could have spent more time with them.
Now we are back on the road, and the girls behind me are singing Disney songs. One of them says, “I want to be where the people are…” That’s how I feel! As much as I like learning about history and archaeology and exploring all these amazing places, more and more I realize that I am way more interested in the people and culture of this country than in its rocks. However, as I realized yesterday, the historical story of the Bible is very much OUR story, and relevant to people today. This is a season in my life devoted to better understanding that story so that someday I can live life with these people and share it with them. May I be faithful to learn all I can now, and patiently wait for the future.

Stories

2008-11-14T05:25:00.000-08:00

Day 2: The Interior of the North
Sites visited: Rabbah, Jerash, Jabbok River, Tyre

Today’s sites were full of impressive archaeological ruins that were fun to explore. Rabbah, the capital of Ammon in the Bible, has a beautiful royal palace; Jerash, the “city of a thousand columns” is a magnificent site, and Tyre is home to a palace with giant carved lions. Each was impressive and I enjoyed them very much; however, what stands out to me most today does not have much to do with rocks. It has to do with people and their stories.
The first highlight of my day came at Jerash, where a young Muslim woman approached me and struck up a conversation. Her name was Amal, which means “hope” in Arabic. She lives in a small town nearby but is a junior at the university in Amman where she is studying physics. She was visiting Jerash with her adorable younger cousins, and all of them had beautiful green eyes and brightly-colored head scarves fastened securely by trendy jewel pins. Even though we only talked for a few minutes, I loved hearing her story.

As we drove through the dome of Gilead, I thought more about the story of humanity as bits and pieces of the past came alive outside my window: cave dwellings in the sides of cliffs; tiny, well-kept gardens; hens pecking the dirt with their chicks nearby; women harvesting crops in the fields, a group of young boys amusing themselves by throwing rocks into a hole; a man settling down with his sheep under a tree for the night. “Every man under his vine and under his fig tree…” (1 Kgs. 4:25). Here in rural Jordan, the Bible seems so relevant. Parables about shepherds and harvesting make sense, and it’s easy to recognize the reality of Bible stories in this land. But do we realize how relevant they are to us Americans as well?

These were my thoughts as we sat by the side of the Jabbok River, where Jacob wrestled with God and came away limping. This story is a familiar one, but here’s a quick recap: Jacob had always been a wrestler—the Bible tells us that he even wrestled in his mother’s womb with his twin, Esau. As he grew up, this “mama’s boy” lived up to his name, which comes from the Hebrew noun “heel.” Where do you hit someone if you want to trip them up without anyone else noticing? You snag their heel. (In the Middle East, they call this “clever,” but really it means doing whatever it takes to make sure you come out on top). Therefore, Jacob’s name really takes on the meaning, “deceiver,” and it was a name he certainly lived up to. Remember how he “cleverly” traded a bowl of lentil stew for Esau’s birthright? Or how he tricked his father to receive Esau’s rightful blessing? Eventually, Jacob ended up fleeing to a different land to escape his brother’s wrath, where he got married and became quite wealthy.
However, as an old man, Jacob was forced to move once again. As he made the risky journey with his riches spread out in a caravan behind him, he heard that his estranged brother, Esau, was nearby! This could have been the end of Jacob and his family.
The story comes to a climax as Jacob is standing next to the Jabbok River one night, perhaps wondering what will happen next. Will he make it out of this land alive? Suddenly, someone attacks Jacob in the dark and wrestles him until daybreak. Could this be Esau? Or maybe his hit man? Finally, the mysterious being touches Jacob’s hip and he is instantly defeated. Clearly, this was no man, but God Himself. After this experience, God gives Jacob a new name: Israel, which means “one who strives with God.” God chose to save Jacob that night, but didn’t change his personality—only his direction. Now, instead of striving against God, he would strive with God. In time, Jacob fathered the nation of Israel, God’s chosen people.
Jeremiah tells us that “the heart is desperately sick and deceitful above all things.” That word deceitful comes from the Hebrew word for “heel.” Essentially, Jeremiah is saying that all humanity—you and me—are just like Jacob. We are deceitful, selfish, naturally inclined to do anything to come out on top.
For this reason, the story of the Bible is our story. If we say the Bible is not relevant anymore, it is only because we are uncomfortable when we gaze into it and find a shockingly accurate reflection of ourselves. We are just like Jacob, terribly deceitful and deserving punishment. God, by His grace, chooses to redeem us.

This story of redemption in the Bible is the ultimate story of all humanity, past and present, East and West. It is your story and my story. Yet millions today live around the world without ever hearing it. Someday I want to live with women like Amal, be part of their story, and introduce them to the ultimate story of redemption told in the Bible.

Off to Jordan!

2008-11-13T05:21:00.000-08:00

Day 1: Exploring “the seam” of the Rift Valley
Sites visited: Deir ‘Alla (Succoth), Pella, Gedara, Ramoth-Gilead

This morning I awoke to the patter of rain on the roof and soft thunder in the distance. When I reached the bus for our 7 am departure and opened my backpack, I found that all my maps had been soaked through. I attempted to dry them by hanging them over the bus seats.
We crossed into Jordan via the Jericho crossing, and the whole ordeal took a couple of hours. Passport control, scanning our baggage, switching busses, waiting in line…finally we were on our way. As we started our drive, the differences between Israel and Jordan became apparent. Ramshackle dwellings surrounded by dirt and garbage, run-down shops, and children running barefoot on the gravel road strewn with shattered glass. Even though it seems very crowded and dirty here, Dr. Wright says that it’s much better than most Arab nations. In fact, many Egyptians migrate here to find better jobs. The Jordanians seem like very friendly people; everywhere we drive, they smile and wave and seem excited to see us. I feel welcome here.

Our first stop was at Deir ‘Alla, which is most likely the Biblical site of Succoth. Here the famous “Balaam text” was found, as well as smolten metal, which is evidence of Solomon creating items for the temple here (1Kgs. 7). There were not many excavated ruins to see, but we pulled out our map and discussed the crossing points in the Rift Valley. The main one in Bible times was from Beth-Shan and the Jezreel Valley.
As we drove to our next stop, Pela, we looked out the window and noticed the “pre-modern” lifestyle of most Jordanians—harvesting crops from the fields, riding donkeys, wearing headscarves, and hand-washing clothes. Pela was a Decapolis city in New Testament times.

Our third stop was Gedara (modern-day Umm-Qais), whose ruins are distinctive because of its basalt rock. I thought it was interesting that this unique feature was a source of civic pride for the Hellenistic, urban inhabitants of Gedara. “Don’t lose the human feeling in the midst of all the stones,” Dr. Wright reminded us. From the basalt theater (which had quite comfortable rock seats—why don’t they build pews like that?!) we could see Mounts Tabor and Moreh. We also admired the black columns of an octagon-shaped, Byzantine-era church. It is one of several octagaonal-shaped churches in the region built to commemorate Jesus. How interesting that the Muslims chose to build the octagon-shaped Dome of the Rock as a memorial to Muhammad—perhaps a subtle suggestion that Islam was comfortably overriding Christianity? We ended this site with a look into both the Tiberias side of the Sea of Galilee (Israel) and modern-day Syria. As we left this site at 3 pm, we grabbed bag lunches to eat on the bus.
We ended the day at Ramoth-Gilead, an important Biblical site (see 1 Kgs. 22) that Israel was never quite able to conquer. This tel stands in the middle of expansive open plains…we are definitely not in the hill country anymore!
As I type this we are driving to Amman, where we will spend the night. Today was a tough day for me, because my sore throat and headache felt a bit worse, and none of the food provided at lunch was gluten-free. However, God keeps on giving me just enough grace to make it through, and I am still thankful to be here.

-----

Tonight after dinner we went to Starbucks. On the way there, our taxi driver pointed out the procession in front of us—it was King Abdullah! Starbucks was a comforting taste of home. Josh bought me a grande decaf vanilla latte as my wages for cutting his hair earlier this week. ☺ We discussed theology and enjoyed relaxing as we sipped our drinks.

After that, we found a grocery store so I could try to buy some food. Unfortunately, the selection was limited, and I didn’t bring much money. However, I did buy some canned tuna and a can of peas for Amy and I to share. I am thankful for what God provides, just as I need it.

Yad Vashem

2008-11-12T10:57:00.000-08:00

Today I went to Yad Vashem-- the Holocaust Museum. It was a sobering day--definitely good, but not always enjoyable. Images, videos, music, voices, and salvaged items from murdered victims all worked together to allow our senses to experience one of the greatest stories of suffering in human history. As I walked in, I was struck by this quote on the wall: "For a country is not just what it does — it is also what it tolerates." I remember standing and staring at a huge pile of shoes--some so tiny they could only fit a small child-- all of which were stolen from Jews before they entered the gas chambers. I read stories and saw pictures of the grotesque medical experiments done on Jews, and saw videos of emaciated concentration camp victims being thrown into mass graves. Survivors told their stories on film, fellow visitors around me cried, and I walked around in horrified awe of total human depravity. My experience at the museum helped me understand why so many Jews want to call Israel home...it is part of reclaiming their identity after such a tragedy.

Tomorrow we leave for a four-day field study in Jordan, which in Bible times included the lands of Bashan, Gilead, Ammon, Edom, and Moab. This is our last field study before going to Egypt in December. Where has the time gone?

Church in Bethlehem

2008-11-11T09:36:00.000-08:00

Last Sunday Naomi and I went to a Palestinian Christian Church in Bethlehem. The whole service was in Arabic, and our friend Lily (who had invited us) translated some of it for us. There were sixteen members in the congregation, including the two of us visiting.

After the service, we had some refreshments and enjoyed fellowship with the people there. They invited us out for lunch, and we enjoyed talking with them more over a meal at a local restaurant.

For the first time since coming here, I felt like part of a community outside of JUC.

My Trip to the Mental Hospital

2008-11-08T07:32:00.000-08:00

I just returned from a mental hospital in the West Bank. I went with a couple of friends who live and work in Bethlehem. We visited with the women there--some suffer from non-psychiatric problems such as epilepsy or past abuse, and others suffer from various mental disorders. As I walked through silent halls with paint-peeling walls and entered the first room in the women's chronic ward, I was greeted by nine surprised women, all in beds lined against the walls. Some were sleeping, but several woke up when we entered. They were so excited to have some company! We sat with them on their beds and tried to communicate with them in "Arabish" (Arabic/English), held their hands, sang songs, laughed, and prayed with them. When we first entered I was so shocked by their condition that I felt kind of awkward and unsure of what to do, but then I started thinking about how beautiful these women are in God's eyes. They are created in His image and are valuable to Him, so they are valuable to me. By the end I was reluctant to leave, and now I'm looking forward to visiting them again.

Tea, Basketball, and a Whole Lot of Walking!

2008-11-01T04:28:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I had a GREAT day. Naomi and I went to the Domari Center in the morning, and tutored some of the little kids. We also taught Amoun, Katia, and Marwa how to make an "American" dessert-- brownies from a box. They think it's so funny that we make things that come from boxes. But they sure loved eating them! Meet my young friend Fatima:

From there, I went to Marwa's house to hang out for the afternoon. I met her 20-year-old sister-in-law, who is expecting her first child. They are amazed that I'm not married yet. We had traditional Gypsy tea and talked (I really got to use my Arabic!) As people in their apartment heard that an American was visiting, they stopped by to meet me. It was really fun.

After that, I met up with Ashleigh, Naomi, and Matt, and caught a bus to Bethlehem. We went to our friend Jared's house-- he is here with Athletes in Action playing on a semi-pro Palestinian basketball team. His roommate is a YWAMer working here, so it was fun to meet him and exchange YWAM stories. That night we went to the championship basketball game-- what a cultural experience! Almost no women were in attendance, so we attracted some attention. Before the game started we stood for the Palestinian national anthem and had a moment of silence for everyone who's been killed by Israeli soldiers. The Bethlehem team was playing a team from a nearby refugee camp, so the game itself was rough; many players ended up on the floor. Other than that, most of the rules were the same. The fans were quite rowdy, and banged on drums and blew horns and whistles as we cheered. Unfortunately, Bethlehem lost by one point. It made for an exciting game! Jared played well.

After the game, it was too late for any busses to be running, so we walked from Bethlehem to Jerusalem. (I thought about Mary and Joseph making that trek on the same route!) Other than some trouble at the checkpoint, the walk back was very enjoyable. When we got back, I was exhausted and fell asleep right away.

Galilee Field Study: Day 4: The Church and Art

2008-10-28T01:45:00.000-07:00

Sites visited: Sephoris, Jezreel, Beth-Alfa, Beth-Shan

This morning we made a quick pit stop at Cana to pick up some pita for lunch before heading to our first site of the day: Sephoris. According to Dr. Wright, Sephoris was “a corridor of Hellenism pushing into Galilee.” Historically, the inhabitants of Sephoris were rich, glamorous, and lived the good life. We examined some beautiful mosaics that told us a lot about their culture. I really enjoyed this because I love art and I think it is fascinating how art reflects a peoples’ worldview. In the synagogue ruins, there is a huge mosaic with Biblical images around the edges, yet in the center there’s a zodiac with the Greek sun god Helios. What’s going on? One possibility is that the Jews compromised and “relaxed” some of the commandments—similar to what the church does today with Sabbath observance. Another possibility is that the zodiac and Helios were simply such accepted cultural symbols that they held no pagan religious connotations for the Jews. Christians today do this all the time; for example, why do we have Christmas trees in our churches? Why do our kids hunt for eggs on Easter? These used to be pagan symbols, but we see no problem using them because they’re part of our culture.
Another mosaic we looked at is often referred to as the “jewel of Galilee,” because it has a depiction of the homeowner’s wife in it. She reminds some of the Mona Lisa. This Byzantine-era mosaic was in a triclinium, an ancient Roman banquet hall. When dining in such a room, everyone lounges on their left side and eats out of communal bowls with their right hand. The host sat at the end of the table, with his “right-hand man” on his right and the guest of honor on his left. Knowing this cultural background gives us a better understanding of the Last Supper. Jesus was the host, sitting in the middle. John, the disciple “whom Jesus loved, was reclining at the table close to Jesus” (Jn. 13:23). The Greek here literally means “in the bosom of Jesus,” which has made many American readers (including myself) rather uncomfortable. However, in Middle-Eastern culture to this day, it is completely normal for members of the same sex to be quite physically close. In both Morocco and Israel, I have seen men walking down the street holding hands, or laying their heads on each other’s shoulders. This verse should not be taken out of cultural context, or else we may totally misunderstand it.
If John was Jesus’ “right-hand man,” which disciple was sitting on the left? In Mark’s account, Jesus tells the disciples, “One of you will betray me, one who is eating with me” (Mk. 14:18). When they begin asking him who it is, he answers, “It is one of the twelve, one who is dipping bread into the dish with me” (14:20). If Jesus is sitting on the end with the bowl in front of him, and John is on his right, then the one who was to betray him must have been sitting on his left in order to reach the same bowl. Judas Iscariot was the guest of honor at the Lord’s Supper. I’m not sure what that means theologically, but it certainly shocked me.
From Sephoris we headed to Jezreel. Since it was raining quite hard, we had most of our lecture on the bus and only went outside to explore the site. We talked about Joseph being sold into slavery and taking the Dothan pass, Ahab’s capital and Jezebel’s palace, Naboth’s vineyard, the importance of the Harod valley and Ramoth-gilead, and Gideon vs. the Midianites.
After that it was storming pretty badly, so we stopped at Beth-Alfa because it had several covered sites with more mosaics. They were found after a kibbutzim started building its community on top of them.
Finally, we made our last stop of the trip at Tel Beth-shan and Scythopolis (one of the Decapolis cities) surrounding it. These were the most impressive ruins we have seen yet! The Greek and Roman influences were overwhelming: multiple cardos, rows of insula, a huge theatre, a public bathhouse, and public lavatories (see picture below for a demonstration of these!)

Jews traveling from comfortably-Jewish Galilee to comfortably-Jewish Jerusalem had two options: either they could go through Samaria, or they could go through Decapolis. Most Jews chose the Decapolis route, avoiding Samaria at all costs. Jesus traveled through both.
As we made our way back “home” to Jerusalem, I reflected on all I’ve learned the past four days. I have new insights into the Bible, Jesus, the Church, culture, and discipleship as a result of our studies in Galilee. I continue to be amazed at all I’m learning and thankful for the opportunity to be here.

Galilee Field Study: Day 3: The Church as the Bride of Christ

2008-10-27T01:43:00.000-07:00

Sites visited: Sea of Galilee (boat ride), Gargesa, Qasrin, Jordan River, Capernaum, Arbel cliffs

Today was my favorite day so far of our Galilee field study. We started off with a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. It was cloudy and rainy, which helped me appreciate the story of Jesus calming the storm.
From there we traveled to Gargesa, where Jesus sent the demons into the pigs (Mk. 5:1-20).
Here we paused to reflect on the nature of discipleship according to Mark 3:13-21: “And he called to him those whom he desired, and they came to him” (13). The first requirement for being a disciple is: Jesus wants me. “And he appointed twelve…so that they might be with him” (14). The second criteria for being a disciple is simply that you be with Jesus. It’s so simple, yet I still need to be reminded of it. I am a disciple of Jesus because he wants me to be with him. How easy it is for me to add on all kinds of other requirements and lose sight of the simplicity of grace. “…and he might send them out to preach” (14). Ministry comes after we realize first and foremost that Jesus has chosen us and that we are to be with him, in relationship.
Later as we went to Capernaum, I also reflected on who the disciples were (Mark goes on to list them in verses 16-19). Capernaum was a New Testament fishing center as well as a garrison for Roman soldiers and a border-crossing point. Many of Jesus’ disciples were fishermen on the Sea of Galilee. Fishermen were the bridge between the Gentiles in the Decapolis (on the eastern side of the lake) and the Jews in Galilee (on the western side of the lake). They were the carriers of international news and ideas, and were well-acquainted with the different cultures around the lake. It was from Capernaum—an open, international cultural center—that Jesus first launched the gospel. He recognized its open potential for ministry and its strategic importance. Furthermore, it was a place where his kosher Jewish disciples were confronted face-to-face with the world around the sea—a world that they would later meet on a much larger scale when they launch the gospel to the Gentiles from Caesarea. The Sea of Galilee was their training ground for reaching the nations.
Another site that really helped me better understand the cultural background of the Bible was Qasrin, an fully-excavated and beautifully-restored Talmudic village. As we sat inside the type of house Jesus would have lived and ministered in, I began to understand some very well-known Bible stories in a whole new way. However, the most meaningful thing I thought about was the use of wedding imagery in the Bible. In Bible times, four to five generations of a family lived together in a house. When a son got married, the father built on another 2x3 meter room for his son and his bride to live in. The wedding began with the son going through the village to get his new wife and making a joyous procession back to his father’s house. Once inside, the whole family celebrated with a big banquet in the common room, and later the couple enjoyed their honeymoon in the recently-built addition.
Knowing this, Jesus’ words in John 14:2-3 make so much sense:

In my Father’s house are many rooms. If it were not so, would I have told you that I go to prepare a place for you? And If I go and prepare a place for you, I will come gain and will take you to myself, that where I am you may be also.

Immediately the disciples would have pictured a wedding celebration, where the husband goes to get his wife and brings her into his father’s house. This biblical image is found throughout the New Testament, and in Revelation, the history of redemption concludes with the same idea: “Let us rejoice and exult and give him the glory, for the marriage supper of the Lamb has come, and his Bride has made herself ready…” (19:7). The Church is the Bride of Christ. Jesus pursues us, brings us into His family, and is preparing a room for us in heaven. Amazing.
We ended the day with a stop at the Jordan River, and a beautiful hike down the cliffs at Arbel (some places were so steep we had to hang onto a rope to avoid falling!) As I enjoyed the view from the cliff, I felt amazed that Jesus has chosen me to be his disciple, and that I get to be in relationship with Him. I’m amazed by how he has chosen me to be part of the Church he pursues as his Bride. And I’m looking forward to heaven, where I will have a small, specially-prepared room in my Father’s house.

Galilee Field Study: Day 2: The Church as a Rock

2008-10-26T01:41:00.000-07:00

Sites visited: Military remembrance site (Golan Heights), Hazor, Dan, Caesarea-Philippi, Druze market/Mt. Hermon lookout point, abandoned military base on a dead volcano looking into Syria

Today our day started with a drive through the Golan Heights. As I stared out the window, I saw triangular yellow signs every ten yards or so lining the highway: “Danger! Mines!” Every year people ignore these warnings and are injured or killed by one of the million mines still active in this disputed region. The Golan is important strategically because it has natural water resources (the Sea of Galilee and natural springs) and is also higher in elevation than the rest of the Galilee; therefore, it has often been at the center of the ongoing Israeli-Arab conflict.
From there we headed to Hazor, a major trade center in Jesus’ day, and after that we went to Dan. We did some hiking through beautiful areas there, and I saw my first pistachio tree.
Our next stop, Caesarea-Philippi, was my favorite of the day. This is the place where Peter confessed Jesus as “the Christ, the Son of the living God” (Mt. 16:16). Jesus responds by saying, “you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church” (Mt. 16:18). This verse had always confused me. What is Jesus talking about? Even though “Peter” sounds like the Greek word for rock, I didn’t really know what He meant. Coming from Green Bay, WI, my idea of a rock is a large, fist-sized stone, or maybe a small boulder. However, at Caesarea-Philippi, the word “rock” took on a whole new significance as I gazed up at a giant rock cliff. This cenomanian limestone “rock” contains everything a community needs for life—water, fertile soil, and caves for shelter. This was the context when Jesus talked about the church being a rock. The church is to be big, strong, and provisional—it is to provide for the essential needs of the community.

Interestingly, in Jesus’ time, this city (like Caesarea) was also at the core of Hellenism and the Roman worldview, yet it is where Jesus chose to introduce the concept of the ekklesia, the church. This is a detail rarely mentioned by Bible commentators, but it is another important piece of evidence that tells us that Jesus intended for his church to include Gentiles. We, as the Church, are to be on a mission to the world.
Next we made a quick stop at a Druze market (the Druze are a sect of Islam that looks for a future messiah). From there I caught my first glimpse of Mount Hermon, the highest place in all Israel.
We ended the day at an abandoned military base looking into Syria. We looked over the road to Damascus, where Saul had his first encounter with Jesus. I walked through the underground bunkers with my flashlight as night fell. There were a few bunks still set up and even a plate and cup on a shelf. The walls were covered with graffiti, evidence of long months spent in cramped quarters.

I both started and ended the day thinking about the continual conflict in the Middle East. In between I continued my thoughts from yesterday about what Jesus intended the Church to be. What a contrast—and yet they are connected. God has chosen to use his church to bring his message of shalom to a broken, conflicted world.

Galilee Field Study: Day 1: The Church and Culture

2008-10-25T01:39:00.000-07:00

Sites visited: Caesarea, Mount Carmel, Megiddo, Nazareth ridge

We started out the day at Caesarea, a beautiful site on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea where Herod had another of his palaces. I stood in one of the rooms where John the Baptist may have been imprisoned, and climbed the steps of a giant Roman-style theatre. I love being on the sea, but for the ancient Israelites, the sea represented evil and everything that was wrong with the world (Is. 57:19-21; Ps. 107:23-30; Rev. 13:1, 21:1). However, for the rest of the world, the sea represented the potential for wealth and success. Caesarea was like Hollywood or Manhattan—a place where worldviews were exchanged along with goods from across the sea, and culture was shaped and changed as a result. For orthodox Jews, this pagan, non-kosher city was not a comfortable place; they avoided it as much as possible. In the same way, for fundamentalist Christians, Hollywood is not a comfortable place, so they avoid it as much as possible. But is this the correct response? Does Hollywood actually shape a culture’s values, or does it simply express the values of a culture? Should Christians avoid or ignore the evil aspects of culture surrounding them in an effort to remain pure and righteous? Or should they actively seek to influence and redeem their culture for the glory of Jesus? How should the church engage culture today?

I am far from having conclusive answers to these questions, but I think about them often, and my experience at Caesarea shed some light on Scripture that points us to the answers.
In Acts 9-10, we read about Peter traveling from Lydda to Joppa as he ministered. Both cities are west of Jerusalem, and traveling there would have required Peter to leave his comfortably-Jewish environment and come face-to-face with Hellenistic culture. Fortunately, he found Simon, a fellow Jew, to stay with in Joppa. Peter probably thought he was really pushing the limit by staying in a pagan city, but at least he could keep kosher and observe Shabbat within his safe circle of Jewish friends.
However, Peter’s world was soon rocked to the core. First, he received a vision from the Lord in which God commanded him to eat non-kosher food! Three times Peter refused—it was inconceivable to him that God would ask such a thing; it must be a test. As he’s still scratching his head wondering what that was all about, some men show up at the door and tell him that Cornelius (clearly a Greek name) wants Peter to come to his house in Caesarea (one of the most pagan cities in the region). Not only is Cornelius a Greek, he is a centurion of the Italian cohort. He not only stands in opposition to everything Peter stands for, but has devoted his whole life to protecting and promoting his pagan worldview. On the scale that measures “Gentile-ness,” Cornelius is at the very top. Normally, Peter would have refused his invitation immediately, so the Holy Spirit has to clearly tell him to “go down and accompany them without hesitation” (10:20). Peter must have been petrified, but he obeys.
The rest of the story is well-known. Peter goes to Cornelius’ house in Caesarea, and tells them, “You yourselves know how unlawful it is for a Jew to associate with or to visit anyone of another nation, but God has shown me that I should not call any person common or unclean” (10:28). He share the gospel with them, many of the Gentiles are saved, receive the Holy Spirit, and are baptized. God chose Caesarea—a totally pagan culture-making center—to be the launch pad of the gospel to the Gentiles.

What implications does this have for the church today? I would like to suggest two:

1. Like Peter, the church must get out of its comfortable Christian sub-culture and take risks to engage the world around them. The church should not be afraid to penetrate the spheres of Hollywood, public universities, the music industry, theater, sports, business, and government. Instead, the church should be encouraging its members to get involved and live as followers of Jesus in each of these areas. We should actively work to influence and redeem our culture for God’s glory.

2. Like Peter, the church must not compromise righteousness in order to share the gospel, but we must make the gospel relevant to culture by living within it. We must not relax the requirements of Scripture or our personal convictions, but we must be willing to share life with people who do not share our values. We never hear about Peter eating non-kosher food, yet he agreed to stay in the home of Cornelius and his family. We must live differently as followers of Jesus in the very midst of our culture.

Orientating my map at on Mount Carmel

Domari Center Update

2008-10-18T00:02:00.000-07:00

Every Tuesday and Friday I go to the Domari Center for the Advancement of Gypsies in Israel. On Tuesdays I teach English to Marwa, a 17-year-old girl who has dropped out of school. On Fridays, I usually do arts & crafts with the kids and help some of the older girls with their English homework. Yesterday I also helped out with some yard work around the center-- we filled almost 25 bags full of litter and brush! We had a fun time working alongside each other. I am really enjoying getting to know these people and hearing their stories.

The gypsies are originally a nomadic people from India, but many of them migrated to the Middle East and Eastern Europe and settled down. Traditionally their culture centered around music, dancing, and art. Today they are a persecuted minority, and struggle to maintain their culture as they assimilate into different societies. Although in Israel and the West Bank they have become Arabic-speaking Muslims, they are not accepted by either Arabs nor Jews. Many still live without electricity, and few gypsy children graduate from high school. The Domari Center exists to provide educational and economic opportunities for the gypsies while maintaining their culture and language.

Masada, Dead Sea, En-gedi, and Qumran

2008-10-12T10:20:00.000-07:00

Today was one of my favorite days of this weekend...we had much less "lecture time" and lots of "play time!" We started out the day with a hike up to Masada, and had plenty of time to explore the site on top.

Up to Masada!

I did a cartwheel in one of the open spaces, saw a million-gallon cistern, and shouted from a lookout point and heard it echo at least four times afterwards! We took the cable car down to the bottom and the view was breathtaking.

From there we headed to the Dead Sea and went for a swim. Not only was it easy to float, but I had trouble getting my legs underneath me! We had fun floating around with no effort at all, though the salt stung some of the cuts on my arms and legs from hiking. I made the mistake of licking my lips and was shocked by how much salt was on them. When we got out and dried off a bit, I rubbed my arm and could feel the graininess of the salt. Thankfully, we got to rinse off in the public showers before heading back on the bus.

After that, we went to En-gedi. Wow! What a beautiful oasis in the middle of the wilderness! As we hiked in we laughed at the ibex scaling the rocky slopes and the little rat-like conies scurrying along in the dust. Soon we came to several gorgeous waterfalls, and I jumped in each one and was completely refreshed.

Naomi and I enjoying En-gedi falls:

We also read Psalm 42 and reflected on David’s use of water and wilderness imagery. He was in the wilderness around En-gedi as he was being pursued by Saul, and writes about how the desolate landscape mirrors the inner turmoil he is experiencing (verses 1-5). Suddenly, he changes to the imagery of the En-gedi springs: “Deep calls to deep at the roar of your waterfalls; all your breakers and your waves have gone over me. By day the Lord commands his steadfast love, and at night his song is with me, a prayer to the God of my life.”

We ended the day at Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. Though we were tired, we made one final hike off the beaten path to reach a cave. As we sat inside, we reflected on different passages in Ezekiel, especially Ezekiel 47. It was a great way to end the weekend.

A cave at Qumran:

Grace: an eye for an eye?

2008-10-11T10:13:00.000-07:00

In the ruins of the temple at Beersheva...this room was the Holy of Holies:

An eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth. I used to cringe when I heard these bloody words. Doesn’t exactly sound like grace, does it?

As we stood around a sacrificial altar at Tel Beer-sheva, those were my initial thoughts as Dr. Wright talked about the law of Moses. However, in light of Middle-Eastern culture, I’m starting to recognize the incredible grace of the Torah.

In the Middle East, there is a ruthless cycle of revenge—counter revenge that exists to this day. It increases exponentially. Before Moses’ words, if I poked someone’s eye out, they would respond with poking both of mine out. This sort of escalating retaliation still exists today. For instance, one of our bus drivers recently ran over 36 sheep in the wilderness, killing them all. He was ready and willing to replace each one of those 36 sheep, but the Bedouin owner was not satisfied with that. He wanted to kill our bus driver as revenge for his sheep. Now the case is going to court.

So while “an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth,” sounds primitive and harsh to our American ears, to a Middle-Easterner’s ears it sounds full of grace and mercy…a radical concept! Even in the Torah, our God is a God of grace.

Another example of grace in the Torah are the “cities of refuge” that were set up. According to the Law of Moses, if someone accidentally killed someone, they could flee to one of these cities and put their arms around the horn of the altar. This symbolized that they were willingly exiling themselves as punishment for what they had done, but would not be killed in revenge. The people of the city were to “adopt” this person as one of their own. Again, such grace and mercy is radical in the Middle East.

Instead of reading the Torah as bloody and restrictive and boring, I’m learning to read it as an expression of God’s eternal grace and mercy.

Today was the second day of our field study, and we explored the Negev. One of my favorite things we did today was hiking the Nahal Zin--part of the wilderness where the Israelites wandered for 40 years. The hike was quite intense, and for many parts the incline was so steep we had to use ladders to scale the rock.

Beginning our hike:

We made it to the top!

Another favorite was watching the sunset over the Makhtesh Ramon as we meditated on Psalm 90, perhaps written by Moses as he wandered this same area. God is so BIG and I am so small! He is eternal like this huge rock crater; my life is short like the grass that’s green in the morning but fries to nothing in the blazing afternoon sun. With this perspective, we can pray “God, establish the work of our hands!” What a privilege that what we do in this short life can last for eternity—bringing people into His kingdom.

Judah, Philistia, and the Shephelah

2008-10-10T09:55:00.000-07:00

This past weekend we had our first three-day field study. The first day was spent exploring Judah, Philistia, and the Shephelah. Highlight sights included Beit Shemesh (overlooking the Shephelah valleys where Samson was born, married, and in trouble); Tel Azekah where we overlooked the plain of David’s fight with Goliath; and Lachish, where Sennacherib attacked and built a huge siege ramp. We ended the day at Ashkelon, where we saw a rare Canaanite arch and swam in the Mediterranean while enjoying a beautiful sunset.

One of my favorite parts of the day was our early morning hike down into the Sorek system. We stopped at a cenomanian limestone cave that was once a house, and discussed the Bible’s description of the ideal life: “Judah and Israel were as many as the sand by the sea. They ate and drank and were happy…And Judah and Israel lived in safety, from Dan even to Beesheba, every man under his vine and under his fig tree, all the days of Solomon” (1 Kings 4:20, 25). After experiencing the climate, geography, and resources that these people lived with, I have a new perspective on this verse. Sometime soon I hope to write more about this...it has to do with "pursuing shalom."

Here are Naomi and I, just a bit wet, after crawling through an ancient water system.

Overlooking the Elah Valley, Matt and I re-enacted David's fight with Goliath (can you see my "slingshot"?)

Shevet Achim

2008-10-08T22:48:00.000-07:00

Today is Yom Kippur (the Day of Atonement) so I don't have any classes. It is a major holiday here, and the theme is repentance. The city it eerily quiet-- no one is allowed to drive, and most Jews spend the day at the synagogue.

Yesterday afternoon I went to Shevet Achim to play with some Kurdish children who are waiting for heart surgeries here in Israel. We rolled a basketball around, played "Uno" and "Connect Four," and had lots of piggyback rides. I was so blessed by their smiles and hugs! I also attempted conversations with their parents in Arabic. Please pray for these children and their families!

Shevet Achim is a ministry that brings children from the West Bank, Iraq, and other places into Israel to get heart surgeries that are not available to them in their home countries. Without Shevet Achim, many of these children would not live long. You can check out their website at: http://www.shevet.org/

Eilat of Adventure

2008-10-06T03:00:00.001-07:00

Last night I returned from a weekend of fun and relaxation in Eilat, a town on the border of Israel and Egypt. It was a great time to get away and enjoy God's creation and spend time with my friends here.

Our adventure started early Friday morning, when Ashleigh, Naomi, and I caught an early morning bus to Eilat. Our hiking packs were stuffed with camping gear, beach clothes, and a "survival kit" from the kitchen (bread--well, in my case, rice cakes--peanut butter, fruit, and vegetables).

Once in Eilat we met up with other JUCers on one of the beaches. We rented snorkeling gear and explored some of the reefs right off the shore. Never before have I seen such beautiful fish and coral! I felt like I was on the Discovery Channel, or in the movie "Finding Nemo." Bright blue angelfish, silver barracudas, orange and green coral, clownfish...it was a whole other world.

That night we set up camp right on the beach. I fell asleep to sound of the Red Sea waves, and woke up to the sun rising over the Jordanian mountains. Before it got too hot, we went hiking through the wilderness right behind the beach. From the top of one of the peaks we could see Israel, Jordan, and Egypt spread out before us, with Saudi Arabia somewhere in the distance.

Yesterday afternoon, as we hiked to the bus station, we commented on how relaxing and uneventful the weekend had been. That changed once we got to the bus station! It's a long story, but as we were boarding our bus, a group of IDF soldiers came and grabbed us, shouting in Hebrew. The bus pulled away without us, the driver screaming at us. We were herded out of the bus station and stood in the sweltering heat, waiting. Finally, someone who spoke English explained that they suspected a bomb had been placed in a bag next to our bus. Shortly after, we heard a loud explosion, and after some more waiting, we were allowed back in the bus station. In a daze, we boarded our bus and safely arrived back in Jerusalem five hours later. There is never a dull moment around here!

Bus station craziness aside, this weekend was really refreshing for me. On the way to Eilat, I thought a lot about the importance of taking our Sabbath rest, and how often I fail to rest until I feel totally burned-out. God intended for us to rest one day a week so that we can serve Him with energy the other six days. And sometimes, we need an "extended Sabbath" to get ready for the work God has for us ahead (like Nehemiah did before he rebuilt Jerusalem's walls). I want to grow in my obedience of observing Sabbath.

Language & Culture

2008-09-29T11:43:00.000-07:00

The other day in Arabic class, I was struck by how much I can learn about a culture simply by learning its language. For example, in Arabic, there are two words for shame; one for “soft shame” and one for “hard shame.” Salwa, our teacher, gave us examples to help us understand: the word for “soft shame” would be used for something mild yet still shameful, like a girl wearing shorts or a tank top (considered very immodest here). On the other hand, the word for “hard shame” refers to something extremely shameful, like a Christian girl running away with a Muslim man.

Also, adults here are never referred to as Mr. ____ or Mrs. ____. Rather, they are called “the father of ____” or “the mother of ____” (the name of their eldest son would go in the blank). For instance, my dad would always be called “The father of Daniel.” Our teacher goes by “The mother of Sami.” If you knew your father and mother would always be known by your name, would you act differently?

Both of these little nuances in the Arabic language speak volumes about the honor/shame culture here in the Middle East. People act the way they do to bring honor to their families and avoid shame at all costs. This idea of honor, shame, and the importance of family and community are much different from our Western emphasis on individuality, personal success, and guilt.

Samaria and Grace

2008-09-28T09:33:00.000-07:00

“He rejected the tent of Joseph; he did not choose the tribe of Ephraim, but he chose the tribe of Judah, Mount Zion, which he loves.”

(Psalm 78:67-68).

Today we explored the “tent of Joseph,” that is, the land that was allotted to Ephraim and Manasseh (often referred to as Samaria). As we traipsed through cities, up mountains, and through wadis, I thought about why God chose Judah over Ephraim and Manasseh. No answers were quick in coming…but after our Samaritan adventure, I am more in awe of God’s grace than ever. Let me start at the beginning.

Our first stop was a quick overlook over the Rift Valley. Alexandrium, one of Herod’s desert palaces, once stood on the highest mountain peak in our view. He often used the basements of these palaces to imprison and torture his political opponents—or his own family. John the Baptist was beheaded at a palace just like this one.

For our second stop, we had to stop at a security checkpoint before entering the West Bank, and were only allowed through because one of Dr. Wright’s Jewish acquaintances met us there and agreed to be our escort. He was a spry old man with a long white beard; a passionate Zionist who was not afraid to voice his political opinions. We went through the Jewish settlement Elon Morae, and ascended a hill overlooking Shechem (the modern city of Nablus in Arabic) as well as Tirzah and Sycar. Surprisingly, Elon Morae does not have a wall around it, because its inhabitants believe that a wall says, “This land is mine and the land on the other side is yours,” a concession they are not willing to make. They believe all the land is rightfully theirs.

Politics aside, it was a great spot and it really helped me see the different routes coming out of the area, as well as understanding the cities better. Shechem is on the dividing line between Ephraim and Manasseh, and is in a secure position with the potential for expansion, looking to the Mediterranean Sea. Tirzah enjoys good access to the mountains, and relatively good access to Galilee; however, it doesn’t have access to the coast and remains an eastern-oriented city, looking over the Rift Valley. This whole northern area is different from Jerusalem because is more open and easily accessible—perfect location for a central city, has better soil and water resources, and also enjoys being the hub of many routes, allowing connections for trade and expansion. In short, I quickly realized that the northern kingdom has many advantages over the southern kingdom.

Next, we headed over to Mount Gerizim, where long ago Joshua gathered the people, recited the Law of Moses, and pronounced the blessings and curses (Josh. 8:30-35). Brad shouted out the blessings from Deuteronomy 28:1-14 for us.

From there we descended to Samaria, and learned more about the Samaritans. Basically, the Assyrian invasion caused the Samaritans to disperse: some went to Jerusalem, some stayed in Samaria, some fled to other places, and some were sent into exile. The Assyrians brought foreigners in to live with the ones who stayed; as a result, the Samaritans became a breed of “half-Jews” who were later also susceptible to Hellenistic influences. They were never on friendly terms with the southern kingdom, who thought their actions reflected unfaithfulness to the God of Jerusalem.

The Samaritans are still a people today (about 700 total) who reside in communities in Shechem and Tel Aviv. The high priest met us at their place of sacrifice and taught us about their religion. He made it clear that they are not Jewish. They hold to the Pentateuch and also hold the doctrines of one God, the prophet Moses, the importance of Mount Gerizim, and the coming Last Days. They still keep Jewish holidays like Rosh Hoshanah (starting tonight), Passover (where they still sacrifice sheep), and Shabbat every week. They intermarry within their community, and because of this many Samaritans have physical deformities. As the priest spoke, I was distracted by the children playing in the background. They were very entertained by several large sheets of plastic. The priest said that all the children attend Arab schools. It was very interesting.

Our last stop was in Shiloh, where we stood on three different sites that could be where the tabernacle once stood. The first option now has the ruins of a Byzantine basilica on it. The second one is an old orchard that has been excavated that church tradition holds as the site. The last option is now a lookout point near an old wine press.

Sitting on the bedrock of the last archaeological site, we took a moment to discuss Psalm 78. This psalm is a history psalm from Jerusalem’s perspective. It shows how Shiloh—the “better” city in terms of location and resources--compares with Jerusalem.

The psalm starts with exhorting the people to “teach their children…that they should set their hope in God and not forget the works of God.” Dr. Wright pointed out that we are always just one generation away from falling away from the Lord. The family is the basic unit of society and must teach their children—the next generation—about the Lord.

Then the psalm goes through a short history of Israel, reviewing how God has always been faithful, even when the Israelites reject him over and over. He even “dwelt in a tent among mankind” at Shiloh, living just as the people lived. However, when the Israelites persisted in worshipping idols, “he utterly rejected Israel…He forsook his dwelling at Shiloh.” Verses 62-64 detail the awful destruction of Shiloh. Then we read:

“He rejected the tent of Joseph; he did not choose the tribe of Ephraim, but he chose the tribe of Judah, Mount Zion, which he loves.”

How completely unexpected! Ephraim and Manasseh have all the advantages…yet God chose Judah. Joseph was the oldest son of Jacob’s favorite wife, Rachel—he had everything going for him! (Just check out the blessing he gets in Genesis 49:22-26). Judah, on the other hand, was the youngest son of the hated wife, Leah—he had nothing going for him. Yet God chose to love and bless Judah, though he did nothing to deserve it. Judah was chosen simply because of grace.

Furthermore, “He chose David his servant and brought him from the sheepfolds,” another unexpected choice (v. 70)…the youngest son of a hillbilly family, with no military or political experience. Yet God called him to “shepherd Jacob his people, Israel his inheritance,” just as God himself had done: “He led out his people like sheep and guided them in the wilderness like a flock” (v. 52). He chose David, an undeserving shepherd, to be a man after his own heart.

The northern arena would have been the ideal place to build a kingdom, but instead, God chose Judah. If God chose Judah solely because of grace, how much more is our own salvation a gift of grace! God chose me “before the foundation of the world” not because of anything I’ve done, but because of his grace. I still don’t understand this mystery, and probably never will. All I can do is stand in awe of God’s grace displayed to me through Jesus Christ, and respond with with a life of love and sacrifice to Him.

Lessons from the Wilderness

2008-09-21T09:27:00.000-07:00

Fort Wilderness—that’s the name of the camp I’ve worked at for several summers past. Deep in the great woods of northern Wisconsin, nestled by the side of a brilliant blue lake, this camp is at least fifteen miles from the nearest small town. Until a few weeks ago, when I heard the word “wilderness,” this is what I pictured—lush green trees, wild blueberries, soft pine needle paths, a cool breeze coming off the lake, hidden away from the modern world of cell phones, afternoon traffic, and shopping malls.

While the “wilderness” of the Bible is also hidden away from the modern world, it is nothing like my peaceful camp on the lake. As we hiked into the Wadi Qilt east of the Benjamin Plateau this morning and surveyed miles and miles of desolation, I was awestruck. This is the wilderness of the Bible. High, tight hills of Senonian chalk plunge into deep valleys, one right after the other, stretching for miles into the distance. Their pallid, corpse-like color is only sparsely dotted with dry, prickly bushes. Sweat dripped down my face, even though it was early in the morning. The sun seemed to radiate mercilessly off the hills, burning my eyes. But perhaps the most striking thing about the wilderness was the total lack of sound. No birds chirping, no leaves rustling, not even a wind whistling. Just utter silence.

Sitting on a rocky ledge, David’s words in Psalm 139 took on a new significance:

“You know when I sit down and when I rise up…You search out my path and my lying down…” (2-3). Getting lost would be so easy in these monotonous, chalky hills; David trusts that God will guide him.

“You hem me in, behind and before, and lay your hand upon me…” (5). The wilderness is an extremely dangerous place; David trusts that God will protect him.

“If I ascend to the heaven, you are there! If I make my bed in Sheol, you are there!” (8) From where I was sitting, I could see high peaks as well as the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth.

“If I take the wings of the morning…” (9) --this common biblical phrase refers to the birds that take flight over the wilderness at dawn--“…and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea, even there your hand shall lead me, and your right hand shall hold me” (9b-10). At either extreme and everywhere in between, David trusts that God is with him.

“Even the darkness is not dark to you…” (12). Nighttime in the wilderness is pitch black; you can see absolutely nothing. David spent many nights alone in the darkness, but trusted that God still saw him.

Starting in verse 13, David shifts from using physical, outward imagery to describing how God intimately knows us from the inside. “You formed my inward parts; you knitted me together in my mother’s womb…my frame was not hidden from you…intricately woven in the depths of the earth…” (see 12-16).

Then David makes a shocking statement: if he were to count God’s thoughts about us, they would be “more than the sand.” Remember, all that David can see stretching out into the distance is miles and miles of sand (or chalky senonian limestone). That’s a lot of thoughts! God knows us better than anyone else ever could.

David ends his Psalm inviting God to search him, know his heart, try him, and know his thoughts. “See if there be any grievous way in me, and lead me in the way everlasting!” Recognizing God’s guidance, protection, faithfulness, and care, David responded by desiring a closer relationship with God based on repentance and obedience.

May we all learn to do the same, in whatever “wilderness” we find ourselves.

The Life of a Shepherd

2008-09-20T09:22:00.000-07:00

(Today we finished our “Approaches to Jerusalem” field study, taking a new route into the West Bank and keeping our eyes open for flying rocks. Thankfully, this trip was much less harrowing than the last.)

What do you think of when you picture a shepherd? A turbaned man reclining in the shade, playing a harp as his sheep quietly graze in the lush grass around him? That image was shattered as we surveyed the landscape. The Wilderness is chalky, rocky limestone unable to support any substantial plant life, save for a few prickly salt bushes. It stretches for miles, and the rugged paths cut through it often lead off steep cliffs. In the summer, the there is no refuge from the scorching heat. In the winter, flash floods are common in the deep wadis, or ravines. Drowning is the number one cause of death in the wilderness.

Shepherds live Bedouin-like lives. In the dry summer season, their sheep can graze in uncultivated farmers’ fields near the village. However, in the wet winter season (when farmers plant their crops), the shepherds take their flocks out into the wilderness for months at a time. Usually, the youngest son was given this dangerous, lonely job. They quickly had to learn survival skills, responsibility, and leadership. David grew up as a shepherd in the wilderness, experiencing all of this. He probably ate prickly salt bushes and lizards, killed lions and bears, escaped the raging waters of flash floods, wandered to the edge of steep cliffs, felt extreme thirst, and went months without seeing another human.

In light of these circumstances, Psalm 23 takes on a whole new meaning. David uses imagery from his every-day life. The Lord is the Shepherd; we are the sheep. David shows his longing for green pastures, still waters, paths of righteousness, and a time when he “will not want,” perhaps in anticipation of what He knows the Lord can provide someday—if not in his lifetime, then in heaven. In the middle of his psalm he accurately and quit literally describes his surroundings as “the valley of the shadow of death,” but then affirms that he “will fear no evil, for you are with me.” Again, he anticipates the Lord preparing him a table, anointing his head, and overflowing his cup. “Surely goodness and mercy will follow me all the days of my life, and I shall dwell in the house of the Lord forever.” The Hebrew word translated “mercy” here is hassed, and speaks of God’s covenantal, unchanging love for us. David trusted in God’s unconditional loving-kindness even in the face loneliness, hunger, thirst, and danger. We, also, can find comfort in God’s faithfulness as we face the difficulties of life.

Although I will never face the same hardships David did, I want to have his same attitude of hope and trust in the Lord.

My Everyday Life in Jerusalem

2008-09-17T09:44:00.000-07:00

I have many adventures and stories to share with you from the past few weeks, but some of you may be wondering what my normal, everyday life is like here. Here is a quick run-down...

My school is located on top of Mount Zion near the Jaffa Gate of the Old City, and my room is on the fourth floor. Usually I get up early and spend some wonderful time with the Lord, praying, reading, and journaling on the roof as I look out over the city. These are treasured moments everyday. Here is the view from my window (the grassy part is the Hinnom Valley):

After greeting our cook, George--"Sabah kheer!"-- and having breakfast, I usually do some homework or go to class. My classes are all great: Physical Settings of the Bible, Intro to the Modern Middle East, The Gospel of Matthew in its Jewish Setting, and Arabic. For my Arabic class, I walk to the Damascus gate and then take a bus to Bethlehem in the West Bank. We must go through a pretty intense security checkpoint with our passports at the wall. Our Palestinian teacher is not allowed to pass the checkpoint to come into Jerusalem. Going to class was never so exciting.

Waiting at the bus stop with all the kids who just got out of school:

Walking along the wall in Bethlehem on my way to Arabic class:

Twice a week, I work at the Domari Center for Gypsies in East Jerusalem. The gypsies are Arabic-speaking Muslims who are not socially accepted by either Jews or Arabs, and suffer from poverty, unemployment, and lack of education. On Tuesdays I teach/tutor English and on Fridays (once Ramadan ends) I will be teaching art and music to elementary-age kids. These are highlights of my week!

On the weekends, we often have field studies for Physical Settings that last all day. We travel to many different parts of Israel, marking our maps, reading our Bibles, and marveling at how experiencing the land helps us understand the meaning of the text. Here is our "classroom" (for this moment, the Pool of Bethesda). Dr. Wright is lecturing as he sits on the railing and we frantically take notes.

During our free time, we do a lot of exploring! Even normal activities, like buying food at the market, are an adventure. Other highlights in the past couple of weeks for me have included: playing volleyball on the Mount of Olives, attending a local church with believers from around the world, having impromptu worship sessions on our roof under the moon, wading through Hezekiah's tunnel deep beneath the city, going running in the mornings with fellow students, going out for coffee in the New City, enjoying Shabbat dinners on Friday nights, and hiking/swimming/rock-climbing/cliff-jumping in the Nahal Yehudiya (north of the Sea of Galilee, south of the Golan Heights). I will try to write about more of these in detail sometime.

So there you have it...my life in Jerusalem. :-) Soon I hope to share more about what I've been learning here. Thank you for all your thoughts, prayers, and encouragement. Ma salaame! (Peace!)

Rocks: A Reminder of Reality

2008-09-13T09:18:00.000-07:00

Today started out like any normal field study day. We went to Mount Scopus and looked out over Jerusalem, and read Psalm 48, which commands us:

“Walk about Zion, go around her, number her towers, consider well her ramparts, go through her citadels, that you may tell the next generation that this is God, our God forever and ever.  He will guide us forever.”

How amazing that I have the opportunity to fulfill this psalm. I am so thankful for that.

As soon as we crested the top of Mount Scopus, we were confronted by a much different view: the desolate Judean wilderness. From here we could see Anatoth, where Jeremiah grew up. Living on the edge of the wilderness, he must always have felt aware of the threats to Jerusalem, and the danger must have felt very real. Those inside the city on the other side of the mountain, however, would not have thought about the danger so much (“out of sight, out of mind”). Concerned by their complacency, Jeremiah, from his experience on the “front line,” used striking imagery from the wilderness to alert them to the dangerous reality of their vulnerability from the wilderness. As we stood there, I wrote in the margin of my notebook, “When we feel comfortable and we can’t see what’s coming, it’s easy to become complacent and let down our guard.”

From there we headed to the busy side of the Mount of Olives. We read 2 Samuel 15-16 and discussed Absalom’s coup d’etat. Then we read Luke 19:37 and the verses following, and meditated on Jesus’ last week of Passover--a festival rich with the symbolism of freedom and redemption. As I pictured Jesus praying on the Mount of Olives, late at night under a full moon, while everyone else was sleeping, I thought about how easy it would have been for him to quietly slip away. He could have gone back to Galilee and kept doing miracles…that was a good thing, right? And certainly much easier than bearing the cross. But Jesus chose to follow God’s will, even though it was the hard way. I remember thinking, “I also want to follow God’s will for my life, even though it will probably be the hard way.” We also read Acts 1:8-9, where the disciples are commanded to take the gospel to the ends of the earth. Again, how easy it would have been for them to return to their lives as fishermen on a peaceful lake! Much easier than dying for their faith in the big city. Yet, as followers of Jesus, they also chose the hard way—the best way.

On the way down the Mount of Olives, we stopped at a first century tomb. Dr. Wright talked a bit about crucifixion. I never knew that those who were crucified were hung from the cross at eye-level with people on the ground. That way, people could interact with them—spit on them, look them in the eyes, curse them, kick them—the ultimate shame. Jesus endured that for me.

As we continued, we passed the Russian orthodox church and headed to the garden of Gethsemane. I enjoyed seeing the old trees and the church’s beautiful dark glass windows, but my favorite part was reading a plaque in the garden that read:

“My Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me; nevertheless not as I will, but as Thou wilt. (Matthew 26:39).

O Jesus, in deepest night and agony You spoke these words of trust and surrender to God the Father in Gethsemane. In love and gratitude I want to say in times of fear and distress, ‘My Father, I do not understand You, but I trust You.’ MB”

After I read that, I prayed the same. Even if it’s hard, I want to follow Jesus, and trust God’s will for my life.
Just twenty minutes later, as we drove through the West Bank, two young Arabs threw rocks at our bus. One shattered through the window and hit two of my fellow students, wounding their heads. T-shirts were quickly given up to help stop the bleeding. Glass was everywhere. Israeli soldiers came and surrounded our bus, and others searched for the boys. An ambulance came. There was not much we could do, so I prayed in the back of the bus with some of the girls. The words from the plaque replayed over and over in my mind, “Father, I do not understand you, but I trust you…I trust you…I trust you…”

Looking back on the day, I feel like I learned a lot. First of all, like the people of Jerusalem who can’t see over the hill, I often become too comfortable with my life. I don’t like to think about the very real danger that is present…not only physical danger in this part of the world, but spiritual danger. Lately, I’ve forgotten that we are part of a very real battle. I need to live with this awareness, being constant in prayer, on guard against temptation, and watchful for opportunities to advance God’s kingdom. Those boys who threw the rocks desperately need Jesus…and someone needs to tell them.

Secondly, the Lord reminded me that as a follower of Jesus, I will not have an easy life. In fact, it’s going to be hard, just as life was hard for Jesus and the disciples. The incident on the bus awakened me to the reality of danger here in the Middle East. If I’m going to live here more permanently someday, this will not be the last time I see violence. In fact, I will probably see worse, and it may involve my family someday. That scares me. But, at the same time, I can still say that it’s worth it. Jesus is worth any sacrifice I can make for Him and His kingdom. I still choose to follow Him…no matter what the cost.

Impressions from the Old City

2008-09-12T05:05:00.000-07:00

On August 31, I had my first 'Physical Settings of the Bible' class. Here are my thoughts from that day:

Today we walked the Old City and simply tried to get “the lay of the land.” Dr. Wright says we need to “see Jerusalem with our feet,” and that we did! From Mount Zion and the Hinnom Valley to the Dome of the Rock and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre…from viewing the Mount of Olives at a distance to sitting in the supposed Upper Room…from climbing high places to overlook the whole city or snaking through a dark, damp meat market in the depths of the Muslim Quarter…we walked, lectured, and sweat our way through all four quarters of the Old City.

One thing that really struck me was the juxtaposition of Judaism, Islam, and Christianity. Dr. Wright illustrated this concept as three trees that appear separate in plain view, but with interconnected roots deep within the soil. Uprooting one tree disrupts all the others; they are inexplicably intertwined. Surprisingly, these connections became very apparent to me as we walked. Passing a Hebrew sign on my way into the Upper Room, I was confronted with Qur’anic inscriptions on the walls. Walking through the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, I learned that the building is owned by Muslims and equally shared by the Egyptians, Syrians, Greeks, Romans, Armenians, and Ethiopians. Even in the church’s depths we could not escape the haunting sound of the mid-afternoon call to prayer. Standing on a stone rooftop, I saw a Hebrew inscription in front of both a cross and a minaret on the horizon.

These strange combinations do not only occur with religions; I also noticed them with time periods. Dr. Wright said, “The past here is not dead; in fact, the past is not even past,” and this is so true! Within minutes I walked from a primitive meat market with blood running through the cracked stone streets to a high-class shopping mall with an espresso bar. Old Jewish rabbis with their long robes and curls stood near a group of glitzy European girls who do not understand that they are degrading themselves by wearing tank tops and short skirts. Muslim women covered in black bustled through the market with their children in tow while a tour group from Kenya stopped to take pictures. A turbaned Arab pushed a clattering wooden cart as I leaned against a pillar in my jean capris and free college T-shirt, taking notes. New buildings are attached to ancient limestone walls, and Byzantine-era excavation sites lie parallel to busy marketplace streets. The aroma of incense and spices mixed with the smell of taxi exhaust pipes, and ancient Hebrew prayer-chants were drowned out by sirens and car horns.

Like nowhere else on earth, the layers of culture and time are alive in the Old City. Jew, Muslim, Christian, ancient, and new all meet here in one beautiful yet tumultuous place. I want to explore, observe, peel back, and understand these rich layers of history. These colliding worldviews and living history has much to teach me, and I am eager to learn all I can from the city of Jerusalem.

Shalom from Jerusalem!

2008-09-12T04:59:00.000-07:00

I am starting this blog so that I can share my adventures and thoughts as I study and experience life in Israel this semester. Enjoy!

Biblical Jerusalem Field Study

2008-09-07T09:02:00.000-07:00

Today was our first full day in the field. In the morning we explored Old Testament Jerusalem, and in the afternoon we discovered New Testament Jerusalem. My body feels sore and tired, but it is so worth the experience!

We started out at the Broad Wall, which is also called “Avigad’s Wall” after the archaeologist who excavated it. This wall dates back to the Iron Age, which is the time of King Hezekiah, and is much wider than the Old City Walls. Several biblical references to this wall and the area surrounding it include Isaiah 22:8-11, Nehemiah 3:8, and 2 Kings 14:13.

Next we climbed up on a rooftop to overlook the City of David, a low place surrounded by hills. It seems strange that God would place them in a “bowl” like that—if any enemies came over the hill, the Israelites would have a clear disadvantage. However, God intended for them to live there, maybe so that they would realize that He alone is their Protector. David sure seemed to understand this: “I lift my eyes to the hills; from whence does my help come? My help comes from the LORD who made heaven and earth” (Psalm 121:1-2). From this view I was also stunned by how “geography is a hermeneutic,” and helps me understand other Bible verses. For instance, after seeing how the “mountains surround Jerusalem” so closely—like they are hugging the city—I am so thankful to know that “so the Lord surrounds his people from this time forth and forevermore” (Psalm 125:2).

From there we descended down to David’s City, and stopped in the area of David’s palace (2 Sam. 5:9, 1 Chron. 15:1, 1Kgs. 9:15). From the Bible we know that each king built his own palace, resulting in a “palatial district” that was located in a high place because it was safer in case of attack, and also caught cool breezes on hot summer days. From 1 Kings 7:1-12 we know that David’s palace was both expensive and creative, and it was fun to try to imagine what it must have looked like in that spot.

Remaining in the vicinity of David’s palace, we stopped at an area that has been excavated extensively. We could see ruins of a stepped-stone structure that served as a retaining wall. At this site a seal of “Gemariah the son of Shaphan the scribe” was found (Jer. 36:10). From this high place it was easy to see the many rooftops of the city, and during Bible times people did much of their every-day living activities on the roof. As we read 2 Samuel 11:1-2, it was easy to imagine David walking along the palace wall and unexpectedly catching a glimpse of Bathsheba bathing on a roof below. Temptation often seems to come when and where we least expect it. From that site we moved to the area of Kenyon’s Jebusite Wall.

After that came one of my favorite parts of our morning. Passing Warren’s shaft, we climbed down near Hezekiah’s tunnels (2 Chron. 32:1-5, 20; 2 Kgs. 20:20), but didn’t go through the water (which comes from the Gihon spring). Instead, we walked through an old Canaanite tunnel. These natural seepage tunnels were widened for the city’s water supply, and date back to the middle Bronze Age, which is the time of the Patriarchs. It was quite narrow, and I imagined Old Testament women trekking through these limestone tunnels to fill large jars of water for their families.

Once outside the tunnels, we hiked to the Pool of Siloam, which is adjacent to the King’s Garden. Although the garden is the setting for Song of Songs, I didn’t find it particularly romantic (maybe it had to do with the fact I was drenched with sweat by this point). In cooler weather, I’m sure it’s quite beautiful. Today the garden is cultivated by a Muslim man. The Siloam pool is mentioned several times in Scripture, but perhaps its most famous reference is when Jesus spits in clay, rubs it in the blind man’s eyes, and tells him to “wash in the Pool of Siloam” (John 9:7).

After a short lunch break, we headed back out—this time, to some excavations near the Southern Wall of the temple. Here we walked the same area Jesus most likely walked (Jn. 10:22), and saw the place He drove the moneychangers from the temple (Jn. 2:14). The temple was much bigger than I expected—one of its base rocks weighs 240 tons! Knowing this, I can better understand people’s shock when Jesus said he could raise the temple in just three days (Jn. 2:20). I also could imagine Jesus standing on the pinnacle overlooking the city, being tempted to jump off (Mt. 4:5-7).

From there we moved to the temple steps. Gamaliel often taught here, and it’s probable that Paul sat and learned from him on those same stairs (Acts 22:3). It’s also the probable location of Peter’s sermon and the baptism of three thousand people (Acts 2:5-6, 14, 41, 46). Furthermore, it’s also possible that Jesus stood on these stairs when teaching about the Pharisee’s hypocrisy, and pronouncing the woes upon them (Mt. 23:1-7, 13, 16, 27, 29-30, 33) because many of the images Jesus uses are clearly visible from those steps.

Our final stop was at the church of St. Anne and the Pool of Bethesda. The church is absolutely beautiful, and has wonderful acoustics. We took some time inside to sing several hymns (How Deep the Father’s Love For Us, Be Thou My Vision, I Love You Lord), and it was amazing. This was the best part of the day for me. I also enjoyed the Pool of Bethesda, which is right outside the church. This site has significance for two reasons: first, it is the place where Jesus healed the lame man (Jn. 5:2-9) and second, it’s the place Mary supposedly grew up (according to tradition). We sat by the pool (which is over 100 feet deep!) and reflected on Jesus’ actions in John 3-5. Whether dealing with Nicodemus (“most likely to succeed”), the Samaritan woman (“known for her promiscuity”), or the lame man (“just trying to get by”), Jesus met all of their needs. He is more than enough for all of us.

After that, we made our way back to campus and enjoyed a hot meal and a cool shower. Today was a long day, but I feel like I learned a lot. As I walked the streets of this city and touched old stone ruins of walls and temples, the Bible came alive. And the more I understand the geography of this Land, the more I understand the message of the biblical writers. I am anticipating many more such lessons in the near future.