We started out at the Broad Wall, which is also called “Avigad’s Wall” after the archaeologist who excavated it. This wall dates back to the Iron Age, which is the time of King Hezekiah, and is much wider than the Old City Walls. Several biblical references to this wall and the area surrounding it include Isaiah 22:8-11, Nehemiah 3:8, and 2 Kings 14:13.
Next we climbed up on a rooftop to overlook the City of David, a low place surrounded by hills. It seems strange that God would place them in a “bowl” like that—if any enemies came over the hill, the Israelites would have a clear disadvantage. However, God intended for them to live there, maybe so that they would realize that He alone is their Protector. David sure seemed to understand this: “I lift my eyes to the hills; from whence does my help come? My help comes from the LORD who made heaven and earth” (Psalm 121:1-2). From this view I was also stunned by how “geography is a hermeneutic,” and helps me understand other Bible verses. For instance, after seeing how the “mountains surround Jerusalem” so closely—like they are hugging the city—I am so thankful to know that “so the Lord surrounds his people from this time forth and forevermore” (Psalm 125:2).
From there we descended down to David’s City, and stopped in the area of David’s palace (2 Sam. 5:9, 1 Chron. 15:1, 1Kgs. 9:15). From the Bible we know that each king built his own palace, resulting in a “palatial district” that was located in a high place because it was safer in case of attack, and also caught cool breezes on hot summer days. From 1 Kings 7:1-12 we know that David’s palace was both expensive and creative, and it was fun to try to imagine what it must have looked like in that spot.
Remaining in the vicinity of David’s palace, we stopped at an area that has been excavated extensively. We could see ruins of a stepped-stone structure that served as a retaining wall. At this site a seal of “Gemariah the son of Shaphan the scribe” was found (Jer. 36:10). From this high place it was easy to see the many rooftops of the city, and during Bible times people did much of their every-day living activities on the roof. As we read 2 Samuel 11:1-2, it was easy to imagine David walking along the palace wall and unexpectedly catching a glimpse of Bathsheba bathing on a roof below. Temptation often seems to come when and where we least expect it. From that site we moved to the area of Kenyon’s Jebusite Wall.
After that came one of my favorite parts of our morning. Passing Warren’s shaft, we climbed down near Hezekiah’s tunnels (2 Chron. 32:1-5, 20; 2 Kgs. 20:20), but didn’t go through the water (which comes from the Gihon spring). Instead, we walked through an old Canaanite tunnel. These natural seepage tunnels were widened for the city’s water supply, and date back to the middle Bronze Age, which is the time of the Patriarchs. It was quite narrow, and I imagined Old Testament women trekking through these limestone tunnels to fill large jars of water for their families.
Once outside the tunnels, we hiked to the Pool of Siloam, which is adjacent to the King’s Garden. Although the garden is the setting for Song of Songs, I didn’t find it particularly romantic (maybe it had to do with the fact I was drenched with sweat by this point). In cooler weather, I’m sure it’s quite beautiful. Today the garden is cultivated by a Muslim man. The Siloam pool is mentioned several times in Scripture, but perhaps its most famous reference is when Jesus spits in clay, rubs it in the blind man’s eyes, and tells him to “wash in the Pool of Siloam” (John 9:7).
After a short lunch break, we headed back out—this time, to some excavations near the Southern Wall of the temple. Here we walked the same area Jesus most likely walked (Jn. 10:22), and saw the place He drove the moneychangers from the temple (Jn. 2:14). The temple was much bigger than I expected—one of its base rocks weighs 240 tons! Knowing this, I can better understand people’s shock when Jesus said he could raise the temple in just three days (Jn. 2:20). I also could imagine Jesus standing on the pinnacle overlooking the city, being tempted to jump off (Mt. 4:5-7).
From there we moved to the temple steps. Gamaliel often taught here, and it’s probable that Paul sat and learned from him on those same stairs (Acts 22:3). It’s also the probable location of Peter’s sermon and the baptism of three thousand people (Acts 2:5-6, 14, 41, 46). Furthermore, it’s also possible that Jesus stood on these stairs when teaching about the Pharisee’s hypocrisy, and pronouncing the woes upon them (Mt. 23:1-7, 13, 16, 27, 29-30, 33) because many of the images Jesus uses are clearly visible from those steps.
Our final stop was at the church of St. Anne and the Pool of Bethesda. The church is absolutely beautiful, and has wonderful acoustics. We took some time inside to sing several hymns (How Deep the Father’s Love For Us, Be Thou My Vision, I Love You Lord), and it was amazing. This was the best part of the day for me. I also enjoyed the Pool of Bethesda, which is right outside the church. This site has significance for two reasons: first, it is the place where Jesus healed the lame man (Jn. 5:2-9) and second, it’s the place Mary supposedly grew up (according to tradition). We sat by the pool (which is over 100 feet deep!) and reflected on Jesus’ actions in John 3-5. Whether dealing with Nicodemus (“most likely to succeed”), the Samaritan woman (“known for her promiscuity”), or the lame man (“just trying to get by”), Jesus met all of their needs. He is more than enough for all of us.
After that, we made our way back to campus and enjoyed a hot meal and a cool shower. Today was a long day, but I feel like I learned a lot. As I walked the streets of this city and touched old stone ruins of walls and temples, the Bible came alive. And the more I understand the geography of this Land, the more I understand the message of the biblical writers. I am anticipating many more such lessons in the near future.
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